Izumo Taisha (Shrine)


The origins of Izumo Taisha are shrouded in myths, and it is unclear whether the original building was intended to serve as a palace for the earthly deity. The Main Shrine of the Izumo Taisha is dedicated to Okuninushi-no-kami, a Shinto deity. According to Kojiki (the Legendary Stories of Old Japan) and Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan), the oldest books in Japan, it was the largest wooden structure in this country. The height of the wooden structure was about 50 meters, surpassing the height (46 meters) of the Hall of Great Buddha of the Todaiji Temple in Nara.

Around 1200 (Kamakura Period), the scale of the main shrine was reduced. The height of the present building, which was reconstructed in 1774, is about 25 meters. It is the oldest structure of its architectural style in Japan.

The unique architectural style of the Main Shrine is called the "Taisha-zukuri" style. The elegance and straight appearance of the unpainted wooden structure impresses us greatly even today. It blends perfectly with the steep majestic wooded hills cradling it. A short distance away, the dramatic coastline of the Japan Sea must have been inspiring to the early inhabitants of the region.

One of the famous legends recounts the adventures of Susa-no-o, the naughty brother of the sun goddess Amaterasu. Susa-no-o was banished from heaven and went to live on earth in the land of Izumo, where he earned the deep gratitude of the local population by slaying a giant, eight-headed serpent that was menacing them. Susa-no-o then married a local princess and settled in Izumo. One of their many descendants was Okuninushi-no-Mikoto, the patron deity of Izumo Taisha Shrine with the fortunes of wedlock.

Other attractions are the Izumo Taisha Treasure House (Homutsuden), which contains a diverse collection of ancient and not so ancient objects. The shrine owns a large number of swords because of the steel and sword making tradition of the Izumo area.

The Shokokan, another exhibit hall, contains objects having to do with worship at the shrine and with the family that has been in charge of the shrine since ancient times. The 83rd generation of the Senke family is currently the head of Izumo Taisha, and his family claims to be the second oldest family line in Japan after the Imperial family.

A shrine with a history as long as Izumo's has a very full festival calendar. The three biggest events occur in May. November, and the lunar new year. At the Taisairei Festival, it features among other things Yabusame (archery on horseback), Kagura (which recounts ancient legends about the shrine's founding), and ta-ue (a rice planting ceremony).

November, which usually overlaps with the 10th month of the lunar calendar, is a very special month at Izumo. This is the time when all the Shinto gods and goddesses are said to come to Izumo Taisha for their annual meeting. Traditionally in Japan, the 10th lunar month was called the "month without gods" (Kannazuki), because all the gods were believed to be at Izumo. In Izumo, the 10th lunar month is called Kamiari-zuki, meaning "month with gods".

There is also the Kagura Den (a hall for sacred music and dances), which was built in 1667 as the great hall for the performance of various traditional ceremonies of the Senge family, Kokuso (governor) of Izumo. Now it is the sacred music hall of Izumo Taisha where sacred music and dances are performed for worshippers of Okuninushi-no-kami. Official prayers, wedding ceremonies and sacred dances are also offered in the governor's traditional form.

Izumo Oyashiro-kyo religion is a Shinto sect that links people with Okuninushi-no-kami, a Shinto god credited with love and happiness. The religion of the Izumo Taisha Shrine focuses on the relationship of love, which binds Okuninushi-no-kami with all humanity. This relationship and the religion that glorifies it have permeated Japanese culture and the life patterns of Japanese people throughout the years of Japanese history.

Travelers to the Izumo area often comment on the unusual windscreens that local farmers have planted. These windscreens, called tsuiji-matsu, are square clipped hedges of tall pines that grow to an enormous size as the years pass. You can usually guess from the size and age of a farmer's tsuiji-matsu how long the family has been in residence here.

One of the local foods that you should experience is the buckwheat noodles of Izumo (Warigo-soba). In comparison with the soba noodles of other districts, "Warigo Soba" is darker and has a more solid texture. Served with dried bonito, dried seeweed, sliced onions and grated radish and served with soup stock, it provides the authentic taste of Shimane. It is served in a stack of three small bowls, but you will be tempted to ask for more.

Izumo city, by the way, is not the place where Izumo Taisha is located. If you are heading for the Grand Shrine, your destination is the town called Taisha Machi. Taisha Machi is served by two train lines: the JR San-in Line and the private Ichibata Dentetsu that runs between Matsue and Taisha Machi. The latter train is the most efficient way to reach the Grand Shrine from Matsue (in 55 minutes).